OVER THE HILL HIKES LAKELAND #4

This is the second of three memorable, low-level, walks we completed during our stay at Keswick in March 2024.

The first few miles of this circular hike follow a section of the “Coast to Coast”¹ walk, from Patterdale to Boredale Hause and you may find it busy during the holiday season. After that the mood changes totally as we walk down a long, wide and lonely valley to Sandwick before returning to Patterdale along the ruggedly attractive banks of Ullswater.

START/ FINISH	There is a public car park in Patterdale at OS Grid Ref NY396159, or if you’re lucky there are a few free spaces outside a memorial hut at 395161.
DISTANCE	8 miles
ASCENT	1,547ft
TERRAIN	A steep climb to Boredale Hause, but good paths throughout: although a little rocky on the initial descent into Boredale and in places along the lakeside path.
PUB	The White Lion in Patterdale is handy, but it does get busy with Coast to Coast walkers (Patterdale is a stop on the route). For a much more atmospheric and traditional pub drive to the Travellers Rest in Glenridding (383169). One of my favourite pubs and one I’d recommended unreservedly.

With the car park behind us, we turn left onto the A592 and walk a few hundred yards before turning left down a metalled lane and crossing Goldrill Beck. After passing several holiday lets and ignoring a footpath signed to the right, we leave the lane and follow a footpath sign-posted to Boredale Hause that soon splits (at 401161). Here we take the right fork and follow the well-maintained path trending upwards across the fellside to the hause.  

As we climb, we face a magnificent view up the valley towards Brothers Water and the Kirkstone Pass. But this is just a taster for the main attraction, seen whenever we stop to catch our breath, which is often, and turn around to admire the stunning views of Fairfield and the Helvellyn masiff gradually opening up across the valley.

On finally reaching Boredale Hause, we locate the “Chapel in The Hause”. There’s not much left of this medieval chapel, save for a few carved stones: but it’s a good place to sit down for a drink and to also drink in the comprehensive view of the Helvellyn range. This is the last we’ll see of it from altitude so we take our time enjoying a vista that includes Fairfield, St Sunday Crags, Helvellyn, and Castyecam.

Take care here, particularly in mist, as negotiating your way through the hause can be tricky. In his guide to the “Far Eastern Fells”, Wainwright warned that it’s “maze of paths is confusing”.

From the chapel we head north-eastwards to begin our descent into Boredale. After a slow start negotiating a steep, rocky section, the path becomes a wide green lane leading us delightfully to the farmhouse, at Boredale Head and the start of a metalled road. On our left are the steep slopes of Place Fell while, to our right, a lofty ridge topped by Beda Fell above us across the valley.

The road forks (at 429187): here we turn left, signposted Sandwick, and enjoy a pleasant, level walk alongside the beck before taking a path to the left (at 424195) just before the hamlet is reached. We are now on the Ullswater Way, a 20-mile route that circles the lake.  

Not far out of Sandwick we pass a barn that has been converted to holiday accommodation and a cafe: it looks an idyllic spot to “get away from it all” and we make a note for future reference, as it was closed.

The “Way” takes us all the way back to base and provides consistently fine views towards the high fells over the lake, but other delights are closer to hand – such as the many watercourses that tumble down from our left, including the waterfalls at Scalehow Force which lie near the path, (at 415190).

“Lakeside path” perhaps suggests a nice gentle stroll, but there are plenty of fairly challenging ups and downs as we negotiate a succession of outcrops.

Wainwright clearly loved this walk as much as we do and opined that;

“….. the lakeside path from Scalehow Beck, near Sandwick, to Patterdale …. is the most beautiful and rewarding walk in Lakeland”.

The Far Eastern Fells

I know I’m on dangerous ground arguing with the doyen of Lakeland walkers, but, while I’d agree that it’s possibly the best lakeside walk, it surely doesn’t rank above several high-level traverses as “the” best walk?

Shortly after passing the head of the lake, we arrive at Side Farm, a place where I regularly camped as a lad while exploring Helvellyn and its neighbouring fells. Turn right here on a path that takes us across the beck and returns us to our car.

If you follow my suggestion and drive to The Travellers Rest in Glenridding for your post-walk refreshment, you won’t be disappointed. This cosy, welcoming pub is situated on one of the paths to Helvellyn and perhaps not surprisingly usually has Hesket Newmarket’s “Helvellyn Gold” – brewed at the community-owned brewery situated north of Skiddaw in that delightful village. They also serve other products from this fine brewery.

Those who care about authenticity might be interested – and not a little shocked – to learn that other widely available, seemingly local brews are anything but. Jennings’ “Cumberland Ale” and the ubiquitous “Wainwright” bitter (which brazenly features a line drawing of the mountain on its taps and bottles) are brewed far from the Lake District by brewing giant the “Carlsberg Marston’s Brewing Company”, in Burton on Trent and Wolverhampton respectively. 

Many’s the time I’ve heard visitors, weary after a long hike and eager for a refreshing pint of local ale, rush to the bar with cries of “it’s got to be a Wainwright while we’re here”. Normally I haven’t the heart to say “no it hasn’t” and explain the “local” beer’s true provenance and the plethora of genuinely “local” ales available. 

DISCLAIMER

I can take no responsibility for any loss or injury caused by following the above walk. The description is an accurate outline of the route and should enable you to follow the walk on an OS map, but the walk should not be attempted without a map, compass and the ability to use them!

1. http://nice-2cu-c2c-https://lakesandmoor.com/2021/12/09/nice-2cu-c2c-nice-or-is-it/nice-or-is-it ↩︎