OVER THE HILL HIKES LAKELAND #3

This is the first of three low-level “Over The Hill Hikes” (OTHHs) completed in March 2024. “Low-level” because the tops were covered in snow, which made for stunning views, but also made walking up them impossible for one whose ice axe and crampons have long lain gathering dust in the attic.

Apart from some showers during the nights, falling as heavy snow on the high fells, we were lucky to enjoy 12 totally dry days – a rarity, as any regular Lakeland visitor will testify! Visibility was also excellent on most of those days: this, along with the generous dusting of snow, provided some great panoramic photo opportunities.

Latrigg is one of the more diminutive Wainwright fells, but is a very popular walk because of it’s easy accessibility from Keswick and the fact that, despite its modest height, it commands a truly spectacular view over Borrowdale and beyond.

We can see the top of Latrigg from our log cabin’s decking, so it’s our “local” fell: we’ve spied people posing there at all times of the day and even at night, when it’s not unusual to see the twinkling headtorches of local runners.

In his “Pictorial Guide to The Lakeland Fells: The Northern Fells” Alfred Wainwright emphasises the “excellent viewpoint” the summit provides: however, while he quite rightly describes it as a relatively easy “promenade” I feel he perhaps rather misleads readers by also opining that;

“this is not a climb calling for old clothes and heavy boots: ‘Sunday best’ is quite appropriate dress”

While I’d concede that the walk doesn’t really require much in the way of specialist mountain walking equipment, in the event of a heavy shower you might be glad of a goretex waterproof and sturdy footwear with decent soles. That said, there is such a thing as being over equipped: I’ve seen folk bestriding the summit staring at their GPS devices or festooned with billowing map cases, wearing clothing more appropriate for a climb up the Eiger than a short stroll up a 1,203ft hill in Cumbria. These folk look like they spend far more on their fell-walking wardrobe than they do on their ‘Sunday best’. 

As well as the summit of Latrigg, this circular walk also takes us to the edge of Threlkeld, returning to Keswick on a disused railway track along a delightful stretch of the River Greta.

START/ FINISH	We start from the front door of our cabin at Burnside Park. If you’re staying in Keswick you should make your way to the bottom end of Spooney Green Lane (OS ref NY268241) then either follow our route via Burnside Park or take a short cut up the lane and join the route where our path across the fields joins Spooney Green Lane at 271244.
DISTANCE	6.5m
ASCENT	1,108ft
TERRAIN	Good paths or roads throughout.
PUB	The Pheasant Inn (264242)

Starting from the entrance to Burnside Park (264245), we turn right and walk a short distance up the road leading to Ormathwaite before taking a footpath leaving the road on the right (268250). The path traverses a few fields before reaching a T junction with a broad track. This is the main tourist route which each year takes thousands of hikers of all ages, shapes and sizes to the top of Skiddaw.

We turn left at the track and walk quite steeply upwards. As we climb, expansive views open up across the Vale of Keswick, Bassenthwaite Lake and the Grasmoor group of north western fells, including nearby Causey Pike, Sail and Grisedale Pike (all part of the classic “Coledale Round”).

The gradient eases and after 0.8m we pass a path off to the right, signposted for Latrigg. This zig zag path can be taken to the summit, but I prefer to carry on ahead for a further 0.25m until reaching a car park (the nearest one to Skiddaw). Here you get a good view of the wide track that wends its long and rather tedious way to the summit. This is also the point where realisation dawns that you could have saved yourself a long, sweaty and breathless climb by driving almost to the top of Latrigg (an outing for which your ‘Sunday best’ would definitely be acceptable attire).

After turning right in the car park and exiting through a gate at the other end we take a path through a smaller gate heading in a southerly direction. The very well-made main path will take us to the viewpoint, but I prefer to bear left off this path (at 281252) and climb on a less well-defined path across a grassy hill that will eventually lead you to a T junction where we meet a better path. We turn right here and, passing the actual summit, walk down to the viewpoint (and, if you’re lucky, unlike us, a sit down on the bench).

Looking behind us, the flanks of the Skiddaw masiff and Blencathra loom, but few spend much time on what is definitely the second best vista available. Instead, we rotate to the right and feast on a truly stupendous view presenting many of the Lake District’s “star” attractions, including Hellvelyn, Dow Crag, Bowfell, Glaramara, Scafell Pike, Great Gable, Dale Head, Pillar and the Grasmoor group noted above. Closer at hand, or rather at our feet, lie the rooftops of Keswick with Derwentwater glistening just beyond the town.

An observation from Wainwright seems to validate my including this walk as an “Over The Hill Hike”. He describes Latrigg as;

“a grand place …… especially for fellwalkers on the retired list: here they can recline for hours, recalling the joyful days when they had energy enough to climb to the tops of all the mountains in view”.

The Northern Fells

Despite clear evidence to the contrary, I refuse to consider myself to be on the “retired list”, as I continue to drag my aging body to the tops of the highest Lakeland fells – albeit much more slowly and with more cursing than in earlier years. 

After taking the obligatory pictures (you can never have too many of that view), we retrace our steps to where we joined the path and continue straight ahead, heading gradually downhill for 0.75m from the bench until reaching a well-made track (at 288250). We turn right here and follow the track down a further 0.5m reaching a metalled road (at 296250). At this point I would normally descend to the valley through Brudholme woods on a  pleasant, leafy trail. Today however I think the well-trodden path will be too muddy and slippy underfoot after all the rain we’ve had so at the road we turn left and continue downhill until just above the river, where we turn right and access the riverside path through a gate (at 296250).

Wainwright considered the stretch of riverside path that now follows as:

“a wooded gorge of outstanding scenic beauty, appreciated best on a railway journey between Keswick and Threlkeld”

The Northern Fells

Alas, it’s a long time since railway engines rumbled along the riverbank. The Penrith to Keswick railway line, operated by the “Penrith to Cockermouth Railway Company” since 65, was closed in 1972 having had a short stay of execution after the line from Keswick to Cockermouth was closed by the Beeching cuts in 1966. The good news is that, like many disused lines, the track has been developed as a very popular cycle path – part of the Coast to Coast route – and a walking trail.

We turn right onto the trail and follow it for the two, very scenic, miles to Keswick, arriving at the old station building (at 271237) and having a good look at the hotel and what remains of the old platform.

The station, which was also the HQ of the railway company, opened in 1865: four years before the station hotel was completed. Originally The Keswick Hotel it is now known as The Keswick Country House Hotel. (following current fashion in hotel nomenclature, but at least resisting adding “boutique” to it’s name).

During the second world war, the hotel closed and was used to house 350 girls from Roedean School, who were evacuated here from their premises on the Sussex coast. I’m guessing that this was a culture shock for both the uprooted posh girls and the bemused locals alike, although probably very good news for those local likely lads too young to be enlisted.

Just past the station we turn right onto the road that will take us past the end of Spoony Green Lane (where you may have started) and onward to a T junction with the A5271.

Turn right on the main road and pass (or if you’re thirsty, stop for a well-earned pint at) the Pheasant Inn. The inn, which is in CAMRA’s “Good Beer Guide”, serves real ale from the Marstons’ portfolio.

This pub is very popular due to it’s good, hearty food, but because it gives priority to diners, not just in the dining rooms but even in the public bar, you may have trouble getting a seat if you just want a pint during meal times.  So, if you want a sit down (and a pint of genuinely local ale) after your exertions, you’d be better off going elsewhere.

Finally, cross the A66 and return to Burnside Park.

DISCLAIMER

I can take no responsibility for any loss or injury caused by following the above walk. The description is an accurate outline of the route and should enable you to follow the walk on an OS map, but the walk should not be attempted without a map, compass and the ability to use them!